Monday, August 16, 2010

Holiday resorts and summer dining in Estonia

One might say that there are 4 resort-towns in Estonia. Well 4 towns that are resort-like during the summer and pretty much bleak and stranded (or occupied by retired-folk from Scandinavia who've come to soak their bones in some smelly mud at a spa) in the winter.

Pärnu is the most popular among locals, unfortunately this fact also has a nasty side-effect of all the dimwits and f***tards congregating there during the summer. They hang out in parking lots, blasting auditory brain-damage through their car speakers and nurse their hangovers in all the restaurants. So, um, thanks but no thanks, right?

Narva-Jõesuu is the smallest and really popular among Russians, probably due to the fact that 90% of the inhabitants of Narva-Jõesuu are Russian speaking. But it has the loveliest and the longest sandy beach in Estonia and it offers some culinary surprises. But we went there last year, so we decided to pass this year.

And then there's Kuressaare - capital of the Island of Saaremaa, where we hadn't been in ages and Haapsalu, the... er ... capital of mud? I've no idea. It's on the sea coast and they have this special mud that's supposed to be good for you. And a blues festival that we went to.

So Saaremaa is nice


And there are many nice places where to go for a snack or a dinner. We went to hotel Arensburg's restaurant

where I had my first ever ostrich carpaccio and it was yummy indeed. The eel-platter, however had a ridiculously stingy amount of eel on it but the fig-preserve they'd made to go with the cheeses was lovely. And the Asian soup S had was pretty good as well.


Besides that we also had some lovely fresh, smoked flounder in a place called SADHU. They have a great backyard terrace and a nice mix and match atmosphere.

And the best clear fish soup (made with pike) of this summer at a cafe / lounge called Chameleon.

And Haapsalu was kind of lovely as well.


They've just recently fixed up the boardwalk and there's a restaurant in the Kuursaal (resort hall) that we went to.

Their fish-soup was, honestly speaking, crap. But the roastbeef slices with mushroom salad that I had was lovely and the cream-meringue pie with pears was divine. Although I have a feeling that the pie was actually from Müüriääre Cafe, it's legendary for it's cakes and pastries (we tested the meringue, the mille-feuille (divine) and the chocolate cake (honest).



In addition to that there's this gallery / cafe on the same street with Müüriaare Cafe, it's called Epp Maria Galerii / Anni kohvik (the artist is Epp Maria Kokamägi and the chef's her daughter Anni Arro), that one's a feast for the eyes for sure, the artwork is lovely and the interior design, the painted tables and the random bits and pieces of art that are displayed on the II floor are beautiful indeed. We only got coffee there, but the cakes looked pretty decent as well.

All in all, bot Haapsalu and Kuressaare won't disappoint a vacationing foodie ;)


thepassionatecook said...

that looks great - i researched a nice spa hotel on one of the islands a while ago, the name escapes me, pille would be able to tell you... i am sure i will go to estonia one day as i will be fed up with heat and sunshine ;-))

Kat said...

ha, well this year it's been sunshine all around and 30C every day, the locals are fainting and moaning :D

Pille said...

Pädaste on Muhu island, Johanna :)

Amy said...

My family is Estonian but I've never been there, so I really enjoyed this post. And your use of "f***tards". Love it.